Breaking into fashion photography

Fashion photography is a vibrant and high-energy industry, but often seen as exclusive and hard to break into. Here, two young photographers speak about their journeys, creative processes, and the evolving landscape of fashion photography.

Nina Zimolong lives and works in Cape Town, South Africa. Her love for photography grew from a passion for capturing African women, taking inspiration from nature and the outdoors. Ian Hippolyte, based in London, England, started his creative career with an interest in film, and soon realised it was the aesthetic and cinematography that truly captivated him. His transition into fashion photography was driven by a belief he shares with Nina: storytelling is at its heart.

"Fashion is quite powerful as a storytelling tool in general," Ian explains. Nina agrees, adding, "With fashion photography, it's a deeper story because it's the outfit, the motion on the model, the pose, the location, the lighting – it's everything."

For Ian, the influence of video remains. He tends to incorporate light and movement, bringing his images to life. This could manifest as "movement of the hair, or it could be movement of the clothes, or blurring the light a little bit to create that sense of movement and that sense of energy."

His goal is to create photographs that "feel like you've captured something in motion" and therefore draw you into a bigger story.

Nina and Ian have something else in common: both draw inspiration from the city where they live.

For Ian, London's diversity is a creative fuel. From old brick buildings to sleek glass skyscrapers, the city's mix of cultural history and modernity provides endless backdrops for his shoots. This diversity is also captured in his images. In one recent shoot, the model wore a tailored, designer-brand suit matched with a long red durag, a close-fitting cloth head covering.

"You're mixing a couture French fashion house with something that's associated with Black culture," Ian comments. "I think that's what I really love about London – the diversity."

In contrast, Nina finds her muse in Cape Town's breathtaking natural beauty. "You can have sand dunes, then a mountain range, then beaches that look like they're from the Maldives. Cape Town is just so impressive in what it can offer," she says.

The fashion photography industry has historically been hard to break into. In Ian's experience, there are a lot of "gatekeepers". However, social media is helping to open doors. Platforms such as TikTok and Instagram allow emerging photographers to showcase their work, share behind-the-scenes content, and connect with audiences worldwide. "It allows you to see the work of a lot of people who aren't getting published in the magazines," Ian says.

Nina says TikTok in particular has fostered healthy competition. "If there's no competition, the same old professionals create the same old boring work, and people aren't kept on their toes," Nina says. "It's new and unique work from new people, and it's good."

Both Ian and Nina hope the industry will continue to embrace diverse perspectives and fresh creativity. "I'm hoping the next five to ten years will open up the industry a little more," Ian says.

For those looking to break into fashion photography, Ian advises being yourself. "That's what sets you apart, so find your style and your voice, stick to it and develop it."

This might entail being self-reliant and making do with limited resources, at least to begin with. When he was starting out, Ian reveals, he used to experiment with friends in makeshift studios. "We set up in the living room, with one or two cheap lights from eBay," he recalls. Nina too advocates being resourceful in this way. Brands like Maison Schiaparelli have inspired her with their use of crazy outfits, and she doesn't believe that lack of access to couture in South Africa should limit her. "If I don't have access to something, it doesn't mean I can just not shoot it. Why not make it myself?" she says confidently.

At the same time, Ian says, make sure you learn how to work with others. On a fashion shoot, you'll find stylists, makeup artists, and many more, so being able to work collaboratively is key.

Additionally, Ian recommends, "do the work you want people to book you for. If you know you want to shoot black and white portraits, for example, then do that, stick to it and become really good at it. Potential clients will recognise you for who you are and come to you when they want your style."

Nina’s advice is similar: "Go out and just do it. Look at an image and ask, 'How can I create this with what I have?' Even if people hate it, one person will love it."

Fashion photography is a challenging yet rewarding field. With the right tools, a strong vision, and a little luck, it's possible to carve out your own space. For Ian, Nina and many others, the goal is a "democratised" fashion industry, one in which photographers of all different backgrounds are empowered to tell their stories through the lens.

Read more:

• Emmanuel Oyeleke: a creative journey
• Fashion photography kit list

Written by Mabinty Taylor-Kamara